BIKE COMMON TROUBLESHOOTING

 

What to do when engine of a bike stops at idling?

Stopping the engine at traffic or at shifting of gear is very frustrating situation. We can say the engine stops when we leave the accelerator. Many bikers face the situation every day. In simple term Idling means speed of the engine at which it runs vibration less without giving throttle (accelerator). Other wise the minimum speed of the engine allowed by manufacturer at which the engine can run at minimum vibration. It is given in rpm/minute. To check the idle speed of your bike, check your user manuals.

The idle speed is set by manufacturer or by a garage mechanic it is not likely to be disturbed automatically. There are some defects which cause to stop the engine at idle speed.

•            Dirty or low grade fuel.

•            Dirty or blocked carburetor.

•            Dirty air filter

•            Very old or low grade lube oil

•            Faulty clutch

•            Faulty throttle wire or throttle.

In this situation do not be panic start your bike by giving a little throttle (accelerator) and corner your bike along the road at spacious place. Try to find out the defects by under mentioned clue.

•            Vibration in idling and stoping the engine means - Blocking of fuel system or low grade of fuel ,

•            You can experience in throttling any restriction – restriction in throttle wire

•            Stopping just after leaving the throttle - faulty clutch, restriction in carburetor and in exhaust manifold.

Rectify the defect if you can other wise search here to locate a garage nearest to your place.

Common bike problems and solutions 

 What to do when bike giving back fire?

Back fire is a blast with a huge sound in silencer (exhaust manifold). It produces a sound like firecrackers in the silencer. The rider or passerby fear by listening the sound. It is not a case of so fear but it is savior and required to be rectified as soon as possible.

The main cause of back fire is Reaching of unburned fuel in the silencer and burns there. It may causes fire so get it repaired soon.

It is not a road side repairs therefore visit a garage mechanic to get it repaired.

 What to do when fuel in bike finished and stop at road?

Now days people are very busy and they do not remind to refill the fuel tank. Even a reserve fuel is managed in fuel tank yet the situation comes. Check the position of the fuel knob (cock) provided under the tank. The fuel knob has three positions to move “Res”, “on” and “off”. If it is in on position turn it to “Res” (reserve) position and start to  ride your bike to nearest refilling point to refill the tank.

If the fuel knob already in “Res” position and you have forgotten to refill the tank or you did not get refilling point (petrol pump), one more “Deshi treatment” is there for 1-2 KM ride

Step:-1  Push your bike at such a place where front portion is up and rear side is down.

Step:-2  Tilt your bike towards the fuel knob up to maximum possible, so that lube oil or other fluid may not come out it may hurt you, and make it straight. It is needed power to lift the bike don’t try if you cannot lift your bike. It is better to manage to get fuel or push your bike to nearest refilling point.

The procedure can be done maximum two times and it will help only a few kilometer.

Either manage to get fuel or push your bike to nearest refilling point otherwise Search here for assistance.

 

 What to do when clutch of a bike is inefficient?

Clutch is an equipment which may not get unserviceable at once in general case. The status of clutch system starts giving signal to a rider that it is going to be unserviceable. The following defects in clutch system occur before become fully unserviceable.

(a)          Very less or no clutch free play

(b)         Too much clutch free play

(c)          Wire stucking up

(d)         Clutch slipping

(e)          Hard to shift gear that means not releasing the gears from running engine vice versa

The free play in clutch lever is called Clutch free play. Free play means the movement of clutch lever in relation to handle during which there is no operation of clutch. The earlier rectification of the defects enhances the life of clutch and performance of bike. Follow the steps to rectify if you can.

Step 1:- Very less or no clutch free play- on wearing of clutch friction plate the free movement of clutch operating lever is decreasing. On regular basis the free play should be checked other wise the pulling power of engine will decrease and the friction plate will worn out. To increase the free play the length of inner wire to be increased.

By slackening and tightening the upper and lower nut the length can be increased. The free play may vary as per manufacturers and models still it is 10- 20 mm at operating handle lever.

Step 2:- Too much clutch free play- this is a wrong adjustment and an indication of big length of inner wire. It can be adjusted just vice versa the adjustment of Very less clutch free play.

Step 3:- Apply some oil in the sheath by disconnecting the cable from clutch and operating lever. And pull and push the wire in the sheath it will remove grime dust or any other foreign object. You can replace with new one it costs Rs-100 to 150 if it is too old.

Step 4:- Clutch slipping is the indication of worn friction plate or very less or no free play. If there is no free play you can adjust the free play as Step 1 method. If the free play is correct then clutches are worn out. It is not a road side repair locate your bike to nearest garage or to a mechanic shop.

Above all defects are rectified and steel you diagnose the hard shifting of gears means other defects in clutch system. It is not a road side repair. Search here for the nearest garage or mechanic to rectify the defects.

 Common bike problems and solutions 

 

What to do when brake of a bike is inefficient?

It is very dangerous to ride a bike of which brake is not efficient. There are two types of brake in the bikes (motor cycles) used in general.

•            Disk brake

•            Drum and shoes brake

The operating of brake is also mechanical and hydraulic. Generally the disk brake is operated by hydraulically and drum - shoes brake is by mechanically.

You can see the brake free play it may be the cause of less effective brake in your bike. The free play may vary as per manufacturer and models of the bike it is specified by OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). Still it may be 20- 25 mm between handle and operating lever at the end.

Step 1:-               stand the bike on double stand along the road or hard ground.

Step 2:- check the free play if it is less or more adjust the free play.

Step 3:- check the brake at 10 KM/hr speed and again at 20-30 KM/hr and at full speed on which you are comfortable to ride. If it is satisfied your bike is ready to drive other wise locate your bike to nearest mechanic at vey low speed and get rectified.

 

How to adjust brake free play in a bike or Motorcycle?

 When the brake shoes got worn out the free play at operating lever is increased and brakes become less effective. The adjustment in brake can be done by lengthen or 

Shorten the the length of brake wire in mechanically operated brake.

In hydraulic operated brake there is only brake lever free play can be adjusted. There is no any adjustment at shoes is concerned. The maintenance like brake fluid level can be maintained. The defects like

•            Spongy in operation

•            Inefficient brake

•            Brake biting etc

These are not a road side repair in hydraulic operated brake. You have to locate your bike to nearest garage or a mechanic shop.

In case of mechanical operating brake system a wire is connected to operating lever to brake shoes operating knob. For free play adjustments follow the steps.

Step 1:- Stand the bike on double stand. And check the free play between brake levers and handle at the end. The free play should be 20 mm. it may vary on different manufacturer refer your user manual.

Step 2:  There is an adjusting nut at the brake drum see the picture. Tighten the nut (turn it in clock wise) it will reduce the free play and turn it in ante clock wise it will increase the free play. Ensure that the wheel turns with a low for force and continue to move without any restrictions. Check free play again.

 

Step 3:-in case of rear brake the free play can be checked at brake foot paddle from it’s position.

Step 4:- the adjustment can be done at rear wheel brake drum you can see the picture. Turn it in clock wise direction to reduce the free play and ante clockwise to increase the free play. Again check the wheel according to step 2 procedure. Check the brake in step wise at 10 km per hr, 20-30 km per hr and at full speed on which you are comfortable to ride. 

In case of automatic clutch and gear operated scooters the both brake is operated by hand. The adjustment can be done at wheel drum (brake drum).

 

 

 What to do when clutch wire of bike is broken in the way?

If you diagnose that the clutch cable broke in the way no need to be worry. Corner your bike at a side.

Step 1:- Lower the gear slowly. It is a work of driving art. Not easy the engine may stop.

Step 2:- Ride/Drive your bike (motor cycle) at low speed on only traffic less road to nearest mechanic shop for repair.

If you are not a good practice of driving do not try this. Search here for assistance or push your bike to nearest mechanic shop.

One more precaution may be taken to carry an extra new clutch cable with your bike to replace on failure. 

 Common bikes problems and solutions 

How to do a periodical service of your bike?

The periodical service is very much important for creditability of your vehicle/ bikes. On riding of your bike the machinery and its parts are wearing out and the lube oil and filters get dirty. There fore changing of lube oil, filters and adjustment of machinery is required of periodic basis. The periodic servicing is carried out in garage of in auto mechanic shops. This comprises very precision adjustments at various equipments.  Still you should know what is required to be cleaned and what to be readjusted at the time of servicing. You are suggested to go through the user manuals issued at time of purchase. 

Yearly servicing is much required either your bike completed the kilometers (10000KM) or not. The quality of lube oil is deteriorating as the time past. The lube which is reducing the wear out, doing internal cleaning and maintaining temperature is important factor of your bike. 

•            New Lube oil

•            A motor cycle tool kit.

•            The air filter and lube oil filter needs to be cleaned.

•            Chain free play must be adjusted

•            Tappet clearance may be adjusted.

•            Brake free play

•            Clutch free play

•            Cleaning of drive chain

•            Cleaning / replacing of Air filter

•            Cleaning of cylinder head fins

•            Cleaning /replacing of spark plug/ plugs

•            Gap adjustment of spark plugs

•            Cleaning of fuel tank.

•            Replacing of your First Aid Kit

•            Checking the expiry of insurance and pollution check certificate.

The servicing is not a road side repair. The question is that why to spend my hard earned penny in garage or in a mechanic shops. Not to worry, you can service your bike at your home if you a little technically sound or follow the steps.

The things/ tools you required:

•            Ring spanner for lube oil drain plug: it varies on different bikes so you have to find the size of the spanner.

•            Kerosene oil/ unleaded petrol 1 liter for cleaning.

•            Clean rags (cloths for cleaning)

•            A paint brush to clean chain

•            Grease to apply on chain and other outer moving parts.

•            Spark plug spanner

•            A tray to collect the old lube oil (do not flow the oil in soil, drainage or any other places. It is very harmful pollutant)

•            New lube oil (Mobil) as required in your bike (refer user manual). The quantity and grade of the oil is recommended by manufacturer.

•            A filler gauge for adjusting of tappet clearance and spark plug gap.

•            A small piece of fine grade Amery paper to clean the spark plug

•            A little distilled water to top up the battery

Step1:-  clean your bike properly

Step2:-  Stand the bike on double stand at hard ground.

Step3:-  start the engine and run for 5 minutes at idle speed.

Step4:-  place the tray under the engine, turn the drain plug in ante clock wise to remove the drain plug and Drain the oil in tray.

Step5:-  unscrew the both side cover (tool box/battery side and its opposite and remove the covers.

Step6:-  remove the chain cover by unscrewing mounting.

Step7:-  remove the seat.

Step8:-  clean the intake air compartment under the seat

Step9:-  remove the air filter it can be remove by removing side cover and unscrewing the mounting. Clean the filter in unleaded petrol properly.

Step10:-              dry the filter with air blower or in sun. refit it.

Step11:-              clean drive chain and drive and driven gears with help of paint brush and kerosene and dry it. Apply some grease on them evenly.

Step12:-              adjust the drive chain free play as guided in “how to adjust drive chain free play” column.

Step13:-              clean chain cover and refit it.

Step14:-              adjust clutch free play, brake lever free play and apply some oil on levers.

Step15:-              place the drain plug on it s position and tighten it.

Step16:-              remove the filling cap and pour the oil in sump required quantity. Refit the filling cap, clean it.

Step17:-              remove high tension cable from spark plug and remove the spark plug with the help of spark plus, clean it with kerosene and emery paper and dry it.

Step18:-              check the spark plug for corrosion, burning and for any crack in percoline part.

Step19:-              check the gap by placing a specified size of filler gauge in between the centre and   adjust is by taping it on a hard object.

Step20:-              Refit the spark plug.

Step21:-              checking of tappet clearance is precision technical skill. For this read more.

 How to adjust free drive chain play in bike?

The free play of drive chain is meaning the allowable looseness in drive chain. The free play can be measured or diagnosed by putting a finger in chain inspection hole under the drive chain. Up and down movement of finger can be under stand free play of drive chain. The up and down movement of finger is 10-20 mm is permissible. If it is more than that it is required to be adjusted. Other wise the drive chain may slip from its drive gear and it will develop a tiresome job.

for adjusting the chain free play follow the steps.

Step1:   see the both side of rear wheel there is a adjusting nut or some where some other fitment in the chassis frame. Understand the fitment in your bike.

Step2:   Loosen the axel nuts of both side with the help of spanner.

Step3:   Slacken the nut and tap on the wheel to push the wheel inside of frame to increase the free play. Tighten the nut to pull the wheel out of frame to decrease the free play. Care must be taken to adjust evenly on both side of wheel while tightening and slackening the adjusting nut. 

Step4:   Adjust the free play as specified by manufacture or 10-20mm and tighten the lock nut.

Step5:   tighten the axel nuts on both sides. Check the wheel by turning with finger for any restriction, any sound and evenness of wheel rotation.

 

 

 

What to do when a drive chain of a bike is out of its drive gears.

A bike chain is a collection of links that connects your front and back gears, allowing engine to pass the drive to wheel. Chains slip off for a variety of reasons, from becoming too dry, improper shifting, and crashes, but they are easy to fix. Your hands might get a little greasy. Every time you use your bike there is some wear to the teeth of the gears and to the chain itself. Frequent lubrication will extend the life of the components. Parts manufacturers suggest frequent chain changes on a bike because a worn stretched chain will wear out other components more quickly. An alternative view is run everything together for as long as you can and then to change the entire drive chain in one hit. Yes it is expensive but you may have changed your chain 5 or 6 times on the other method . . It can be diagnosed if drive is not passing from engine to wheel. This defect generally does not occur. Yet is a frustrating and tiresome job The factor or the defects are following.

•            Loose drive chain

•            Very old or defective drive chain

•            Worn out of wheel bearing

•            Worn out drive gears

If you are unfortunate and facing this problem in the way. You should have bike tool kit to rectify your selves other wise push your bike to nearest mechanic shop. If you have tool kit follow the steps.

Step1:   Remove the chain cover on removing of mounting nuts.

Step2:   see the chain, which side (front/drive gear or rear/ driven gear) the drive chain came out of its track.

Step3:   You can fix it by slackening of axel nut and chain adjusting nut.

Step 4:- adjust the drive chain free play and tighten the axel nut.

Step 5:- Refit the chain cover and test the ride.

BIG CAUTION: If you have badly worn component in the drive chain, like drive gear, driven gear or chain or etc change everything. If you try mixing new and even mildly worn components you may get chain slip but will certainly wear out the newer components more quickly.

 

 common bikes problems and solutions 

How adjust the head light beam of a bike?

Night will begin creeping back into our riding hours. And while you spent the summer using the headlight to alert other drivers and attract insects, now you actually need to see something. You are having a good-quality bulb, clean lenses yet you have take a moment to be sure your headlights are aimed correctly. You may be amazed by knowing how many test bikes we get whose headlights are either searching for night crawlers or probing the heavens for intelligent life but not working for what it is being fitted.

This is an easy thing, but you need to understand what you're adjusting and where to aim the beam. Take a look in the owner's manual and then peer around the headlight area to understand what the manual says.

Generally, generally it is one of the three categories of headlight adjustment hardware.

 

Step 1:- Screw-type adjusters. Bucket headlights normally pivot around the mounting ears, and have a small setting apparatus; usually below the beam there is a adjuster screw to adjust. This is among the easier-to-use types; turn the screw clockwise to lower the beam.

Then you may discover your bike has exposed adjusters that make quick changes easy. In this case, turning the adjuster ante clockwise moves the headlight beam upward.

 

There is another adjustment, seen just inside the lower edge of the fairing, that moves the beam left to right. Finally, some bikes have buried adjusters

 

Step 2:- The idea here is that you're supposed to stick a thin screwdriver up through some piece of bodywork and into the small plastic socket. The teeth of the screwdriver will engage the metal wheel. Turn it one way and the beam moves.

So how are you supposed to aim the beam? A lot of riders simply adjust until the light startles oncoming drivers--and then back off a half turn. Believe it or not, there are official recommendations.

 

Step 3:-. Find a flat patch of ground with a white or light-colored wall at one end. Place the bike 25 feet from the wall or garage door.

Step 4:- Measure from the center of the headlight to the ground with the bike level.

 Step 5:-              Now go over to the garage door and mark one line at the same height above ground, and another two inches lower. Use a carpenter's level to draw a horizontal reference line

 

Step 6:- Switch on the headlights and mount the motorcycle. The low beam's upper cutoff point should rest right on the lower line

Step 7:- Because most bikes have combined high- and low-beam reflectors, setting the height (and checking to see that the beam is centered along the bike's long axis) is about all there is to it. But if you have separate high beams, make the center of the high beam land on the upper line. That's it. Button everything up--don't leave that screwdriver poking through the fairing--and enjoy autumn knowing you're ready for the dark, short days of winter.

 

How to clean the air filter of your bike?

The air filter is very much essential part of your bike. Dirty air filter causes so many defects in the engine.

•            Not starting.

•            Stopping at idle speed.

•            Wear or burning or valve and valve seats.

•            Less KPL.

•            Sedimentation in lube oil.

•            And so many.

The cleaning of air filter is very much required. If uyou riding in dusty area the cleaning is required very frequently other wise it may be done at time of servicing and one time in between (in six months).

Step 1:- Remove the air filter it can be remove by removing side cover and unscrewing the mounting. Mostly it is located under the side cover or under the seat. Work smoothly while working with Air filter of bike.

Step 2:- you might have seen a mechanic to clean air filter of a bike. The air filter may be cleaned in petrol and dry it properly.

 Step 2:-              Fit it back.

 

  What are the documents required to keep with bikers (bike riders)?

The following documents are required to keep with rider or with bike.

•            Valid driving license

•            Pollution check certificate

•            RC (registration certificate) of bike

•            A First Aid Kit

 

 

How to maintain the shock absorbers of a bike?

To enhance the life of shock absorbers and to keep it comfortable there are some maintenance and care to be adhered.

•            Never over load the bike. Bike is only two seater transportation.

•            Slow the speed while crossing speed breakers or uneven roads.

•            Never allow the oil should come on rubber sealings.

•            Keep clean the air vent in rear suspension.

•            Never allow the corrosion come at the springs.

•            Use specified grade of oil in sock absorbers while servicing.

 

16.         Know the big ones of your bike.

•            Sometimes the motorcycle breaks in a big way. While you can’t fix these you can diagnose them. They don’t tell you about these major failures when you buy the thing, and motorcycle safety courses I guess figures you won’t ride a bike like that… but I guess they’ve never heard of YouTube and I've had a person ride to meet me on a motorcycle with a spun rod bearing thinking it was a bad gear or something.

•            Diagnosing the difference between valves and bearings is a bit of an art on a motorcycle because the whole thing vibrates throughout the frame. In general the rules are as follows:

•            Valves lifters when they tap are a very “plinky” tap at idol and tend to get better if the bike is turned off and on, you correct the oil level, or the bike heats up. If your noise is like that, you probably just need an oil change. On a bike without hydraulic lifters, you need a tune up.

•            Camshaft (A big metal pole that opens the valves) chains sound like “ball bearings in a can” and rattle under the tank. Cam chain rattles need to go to the mechanic but are normally not horrible in cost to fix. If the plink doesn’t get better with topping of fluids or heat, it’s something that will need to get fixed.

•            Valve issues on the other hand tend to “suck.” No literally! Sticking valves cause suction on the tailpipe and Valves are also often the cause of black smoke.

•            Major engine troubles on motorcycles sound like a metal scrape. Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s the transmission just because the sound goes away most the time when the bike is put into gear or revved. Engine heat doesn’t make much difference with these noises, and a low oil pressure light is a dead giveaway.

•            A rod, piston or serious knock is not subtle and you can change the noise by manipulating the throttle. The real thing to look for in all engines are a marked “rattle up” or “rattle down” noises that follow the throttle. You should not run bikes making noises like this at all.

Common bikes problems and solutions 

•            Transmissions are easier to decide if it’s a little or big problem. If it spits you out of gear, jams in gear or just won’t go into gear, than there's very little hope that anything but a total rebuild will fix the issue (for most motorcycles). But if the transmission “sputters,” rattles or pulses as you put it in or out of gear it’s normally just the clutch. The best thing you can do for your transmission is to always make the full shift, the gears are mostly damaged by half shifts. A clunky gear box, which sometimes makes a metal punch noise doesn’t usually mean much except that it's designed to shift fast and take abuse. It seems transmissions can shifted quietly or fast, but physics gets in the way of making it do both.

Sharing thought

•            I designed this guide to help people clear up the “simple fixes." You need fuel/ petrol and spark to run any engine and good controls to use it. This story evolved from being about choosing the right mechanic to bike repairs, because identifying what's wrong with your bike before you get the mechanic will help you pick the right one.