Bike repair guide

 

1.           What to do when your bike switched off and not starting?

No matter you have Hero, Honda, Bajaj or Royal Enfield every person face this problem. Giving crank to start again and again and shifting self start to kick. A man sweating by kicking the paddle to start but it is not starting. It is very tiresome job to pull your bike to nearest garage or a mechanic. Here is a list of common problems and easy steps you can take to diagnose the nature of a mechanical issue.

Step 1:- 

Check your ignition switch.

 Turn it in “off” position and again turn to “on” position. A green light should come at “ON” on your meter or dashboard. It doesn’t come in old ignition switch or some times it does not work properly due to dust corrosion and other foreign objects.

Check your Cables: - 

Most bikes have at least three cables that can go bad and cause headaches, the throttle and clutch cables. Even in some old make, one more cable is a choke cable. In some clutch less bike/ scooter there is no clutch cable. In addition to that there must be brake cable but these are not related to starting (stalking) problem. The three main causes of cable woes are wrong routing, it's too short after changing handle bars or crashing and, most often, not properly maintained and rusted.

Step 2:- 

Bike Throttle 

The throttle cable is most vulnerable in causing starting problem. Check throttles cable it should go back when we release after turning to give accelerator. There should not be any stuck of wire in outer cable.

The stuck can be removed by dropping some lube oil on wire fitted in sheath (outer cable). Disconnect the cable from one side and disconnect locking/ holding with body to cable for changing inner cable. Drive the new one in outer sheathe.

For troubleshooting of motorcycle 

Step 3:- 

Remove the cable from the bike.

Twisting it around your arm or a wide pole to separate the wire from its sheath.

Apply a readily available spray lubricant from a fuel/petrol station like WD40 and work the inner cable up and down in the sheath

I’ve even seen people create makeshift funnels out of silly putty and soak the cable overnight in liquid to get OK results. Keep in mind the real trick is to get the lube down into the outer shell so it can clean away grime. Still does not work replace the cable other wise refit it. 

Step 4:- 

Choke cable:

In case of choke cable check it in the same way as throttle cable. Check the routing of cable or any stretch on turning the handle.

 

Mind your fuel tank and fuel line:

It may be the cause your fuel tank is empty. I helped a much embarrassed young man in New Delhi at India gate he was sweating and very frustrated by checking all short in his new bike like spark plug, self crank switch, clutch, choke and throttle cable and many more. He didn’t mind his empty fuel tank. When  I checked by removing fuel pipe line from fuel tank after knob. I give some gasoline from my bike to ride up fuel station.

In India most bikes have gravity feed fuel system but some bikes having electric fuel feed pump to supply the fuel to carburetor or injectors. Bellow the fuel tank “On/Off” knob fitted with mesh filter.

Step 5:- 

Check your fuel knob position:

The knob has three positions “On”, “Res” and “Off”. Check the position of knob.

If the knob is in “On” or  “Res” position check the fuel supply from knob. If there is restriction the mesh filter is culprit to not supply the fuel. There may be dirt, grime or other restriction clean it by removing the knob from tank and filter from knob.

Step 5:- 

Check fuel pump 

If your bike has fuel pump check the serviceability of it. Pumps can be tested by putting a finger on them and clicking the ignition from off to on. You should feel the pump “click” as it primes. If there is no click check the fuses. If it clicks more than 4 times it is ok.

Step 6:-     

Check Fuel pipe line

  I have watched in some cases in gravity feeded fuel system a vapor lock created in pipe line. That can be cured by flowing some fuel just behind the carburetor. Remove the pipe from carburetor and flow a little fuel and reconnect it.

 Step 7:- 

Mind your idle speed of engine:

 It makes you worry by stalking in between “Idle” where the motorcycle raises up randomly, changes RPMs or takes forever to come down to idle.

Lean running engines tend to “hang up” at high rpms when the throttle is let go, and they also revolves down slowly after the throttle is closed. A key clue is that the issue gets better as the bike warms up or that you are running hot. Extremely lean motors can also stall out completely when given some light throttle. Another signs of lean running is the “hunting”. 

Troubleshooting of bikes/ motorcycle 

Step 8:-     

First, start simple and look for a loose or open vacuum hose. If that checks out, you can spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid on the rubber boots where the carbs/bodies connect to the engine and listens for a change in RPMs. Lastly, confirm that the fuel is being supplied like it is supposed to by checking everything in the section above. If it is, lean running is the number one sign you need carb work but it can also indicate you’ve really gone a long ways between tune-ups.

Step 8:-           

  If your bike isn’t idling right, warm it up and take note of if adding choke (making the mix richer) or cracking the throttle ever so slightly (making leaner) makes the bike change behavior.

Even Electronically Fuel Injected motorcycles reveal a lot by “blipping” the throttle. Rich bikes are getting too much fuel/petrol/petrol (fuel)/, so they idle high but lose power when given initial throttle because they can’t burn all the fuel/petrol.

 Step 9:-       Also check that the choke cable works. It has been discussed in “mind your cables’ section.

Step 10:-     

Check spark plugs 

       After that, checking the spark plug gap and burning/ corrosion. Remove the spark plugs/plug from your bike engine with the help of spark plug spanner. Check it by Just viewing if any corrosion, grime or burning spot is seen clean it in kerosene and with a smooth emery paper. Now adjust the gap between centre electrode and outer of spark plug. The gap may vary on manufacturers. Even it may average 1-3 mm.

Step 11:-           

  Check the fuel level in carburetor bowl.

Mind your ignition:

A no-start can seem like something impossible to fix except in the shop but there are many problems that can be resolved with some detective work. 

Step 12:-       

Check battery of your bike or Motorcycle 

   If your bike is only battery/ self started, first ensure that battery is in good condition and that the engine turns over. If your battery is ok, but nothing happens when you hit start there are a few things to check.

Step 13:-             Make sure the batteries black ground cable is solidly connected to both the battery and grounding point on the engine (that is where the big black battery cable connects to the engine) and that the fuses on the main switch (connected to the big red battery cable in most cases) are good.

Step 18:-             Clutch switches, kickstand switches and the neutral light can all break to cause this type of problem. Try starting with the kickstand up, clutch in, and bike in neutral and see if the motor spins. If not, these switches can normally be bypassed with a paperclip pressed into both ends of the connector one at a time.

Step 19:-             I have seen many people doing, pushed the bike by other person. It helps If it still won’t spin and you don’t hear anything when you hit start, try roll-starting the bike by getting some speed (ask a buddy to push) and put the clutch down in second gear. If it starts, some things wrong with the starter system, check the connections.

Step 20:-             Sometimes the engine just spins and you’ve already checked the fuel system like we’ve outlined above. In this case you need to ensure you have spark.  Rotate the wire ¼ a turn in both directions before you pull it to help prevent the connection from breaking. In a pinch or if you don’t want a special tool you’ll hardly use, set the wire against the engine with a metal screwdriver in it and look for a blue flash.  Because there are fire risk and real big electrocution risk, I suggest that it is better to buy tester or don’t do it your selves. If there is a spark, check the plug gaps. If there is no spark, and the connections are tight you’ll have to do some in-depth troubleshoot on the coils, crankshaft pickup and wiring harness. Not a light job.

Step 21:-        

 Check HT cable of bike 

  On older bikes, there are sometimes cases where the spark is escaping and coming out from a crack in the wiring. This is only really visible in the dark; luckily, it is normally also audible as a regular crackling while turning the engine. Go to nearest garage or contact a mechanic.

 

2.           What to do when engine of a bike stops at idling?

Stopping the engine at traffic or at shifting of gear is very frustrating situation. We can say the engine stops when we leave the accelerator. Many bikers face the situation every day. In simple term Idling means speed of the engine at which it runs vibration less without giving throttle (accelerator). Other wise the minimum speed of the engine allowed by manufacturer at which the engine can run at minimum vibration. It is given in rpm/minute. To check the idle speed of your bike, check your user manuals.

The idle speed is set by manufacturer or by a garage mechanic it is not likely to be disturbed automatically. There are some defects which cause to stop the engine at idle speed.

•            Dirty or low grade fuel.

•            Dirty or blocked carburetor.

•            Dirty air filter

•            Very old or low grade lube oil

•            Faulty clutch

•            Faulty throttle wire or throttle.

In this situation do not be panic start your bike by giving a little throttle (accelerator) and corner your bike along the road at spacious place. Try to find out the defects by under mentioned clue.

•            Vibration in idling and stoping the engine means - Blocking of fuel system or low grade of fuel ,

•            You can experience in throttling any restriction – restriction in throttle wire

•            Stopping just after leaving the throttle - faulty clutch, restriction in carburetor and in exhaust manifold.

Rectify the defect if you can other wise search here to locate a garage nearest to your place.

Troubleshooting of bikes 

 

3.           What to do when bike giving back fire?

Back fire is a blast with a huge sound in silencer (exhaust manifold). It produces a sound like firecrackers in the silencer. The rider or passerby fear by listening the sound. It is not a case of so fear but it is savior and required to be rectified as soon as possible.

The main cause of back fire is Reaching of unburned fuel in the silencer and burns there. It may causes fire so get it repaired soon.

It is not a road side repairs therefore visit a garage mechanic to get it repaired.

 

 

4.           What to do when fuel in bike finished and stop at road?

Now days people are very busy and they do not remind to refill the fuel tank. Even a reserve fuel is managed in fuel tank yet the situation comes. Check the position of the fuel knob (cock) provided under the tank. The fuel knob has three positions to move “Res”, “on” and “off”. If it is in on position turn it to “Res” (reserve) position and start to  ride your bike to nearest refilling point to refill the tank.

If the fuel knob already in “Res” position and you have forgotten to refill the tank or you did not get refilling point (petrol pump), one more “Deshi treatment” is there for 1-2 KM ride

Step:-1  Push your bike at such a place where front portion is up and rear side is down.

Step:-2  Tilt your bike towards the fuel knob up to maximum possible, so that lube oil or other fluid may not come out it may hurt you, and make it straight. It is needed power to lift the bike don’t try if you cannot lift your bike. It is better to manage to get fuel or push your bike to nearest refilling point.

The procedure can be done maximum two times and it will help only a few kilometer.

Either manage to get fuel or push your bike to nearest refilling point otherwise Search here for assistance.

 

 

 

5.           What to do when clutch of a bike is inefficient? Or Clucth cable broken?

Clutch is an equipment which may not get unserviceable at once in general case. The status of clutch system starts giving signal to a rider that it is going to be unserviceable. The following defects in clutch system occur before become fully unserviceable.

(a)          Very less or no clutch free play

(b)         Too much clutch free play

(c)          Wire stucking up

(d)         Clutch slipping

(e)          Hard to shift gear that means not releasing the gears from running engine vice versa

The free play in clutch lever is called Clutch free play. Free play means the movement of clutch lever in relation to handle during which there is no operation of clutch. The earlier rectification of the defects enhances the life of clutch and performance of bike. Follow the steps to rectify if you can.

Step 1:- Very less or no clutch free play- on wearing of clutch friction plate the free movement of clutch operating lever is decreasing. On regular basis the free play should be checked other wise the pulling power of engine will decrease and the friction plate will worn out. To increase the free play the length of inner wire to be increased.

By slackening and tightening the upper and lower nut the length can be increased. The free play may vary as per manufacturers and models still it is 10- 20 mm at operating handle lever.

Step 2:- Too much clutch free play- this is a wrong adjustment and an indication of big length of inner wire. It can be adjusted just vice versa the adjustment of Very less clutch free play.

Step 3:- Apply some oil in the sheath by disconnecting the cable from clutch and operating lever. And pull and push the wire in the sheath it will remove grime dust or any other foreign object. You can replace with new one it costs Rs-100 to 150 if it is too old.

Step 4:- Clutch slipping is the indication of worn friction plate or very less or no free play. If there is no free play you can adjust the free play as Step 1 method. If the free play is correct then clutches are worn out. It is not a road side repair locate your bike to nearest garage or to a mechanic shop.

Above all defects are rectified and steel you diagnose the hard shifting of gears means other defects in clutch system. It is not a road side repair. Search here for the nearest garage or mechanic to rectify the defects.

 

 Troubleshooting of bikes/motorcycle 

6.           What to do when brake of a bike is inefficient?

It is very dangerous to ride a bike of which brake is not efficient. There are two types of brake in the bikes (motor cycles) used in general.

•            Disk brake

•            Drum and shoes brake

The operating of brake is also mechanical and hydraulic. Generally the disk brake is operated by hydraulically and drum - shoes brake is by mechanically.